Hollywood Cherise

The Hollywood Cherise features in the Summer 3/2012 issue of Ottobre. The main part of the dress is gathered onto a yoke and as the little cap sleeves are part of the rest of the dress, there are no sleeves to sew, making this a quick dress to put together. I made this gingham version for Amélie around the end of November or start of December.


I omitted the pockets from the pattern.The instructions suggest cutting them on the bias, but I had trouble maintaining the nice square shape when I did that, so ditched them altogether. Most likely they would only end up full of sand at this time of year, anyway.


As you can see from the photos, it is a comfortable dress to wear. Amélie has no trouble playing in it, and it is perfectly breezy for a hot, summer day. It can also be made shorter, if you like, so it can be worn with pants or shorts as a tunic, rather than the full-length dress.


The final detail was the pearl snaps I added to the back of the dress. Easy to do up and undo, and a perfect compliment to the classic red gingham fabric I used. I love this pattern, and Amélie seems to love wearing it, so I might revisit it some time with some different fabrics.


The Hollywood Cerise used about three fat quarters of fabric from my stash. The Christmas Tree Skirt in the previous blog post used approximately 10 FQs of fabric, but I bought six FQs of fabric and used the rest from my stash. I also purchased 15 FQs of fabric to make myself a top and a further 12 FQs to make Maxx a shirt. Why, oh why does this feel like a major confession?! SYST13 Running totals: in = 140, out = 268, total = -128

Kids Clothes Week October 2013

Well, I didn't sew EVERY day for the kids this Kids Clothes week, and I even sewed something that wasn't for the kids, but I do think that three items of clothing isn't too bad. I love this pattern from the Autumn 2013 issue of Ottobre. It's a very basic raglan style tee-shirt with long sleeves and a cute pocket. Perfect for both Autumn and for Spring. Raglan sleeves are great for small children and for babies, as the arm opening is quite large and it is easier to guide small hands through than a set-in sleeve is. They are also easier to sew as it is pretty much a straight line, or in this case a very slightly curved one. I also love the retro look of a raglan sleeve and feel it works really well for mixing and matching fabrics.


I borrowed Mum's cover-stitch machine to do the hems and the bands. Mum was very generous lending me the machine, as it was just back from being repaired and she hadn't even had a chance to use it herself. I can report that it is now making a perfect stitch, and I am having no troubles with the tensioners. You could use a twin needle to do the hems if you don't have access to a cover-stitch, although I do prefer the finish the machine gives, I would love a cover-stitch machine of my own one day, but Mum's will do for now. You could also do the hems with a zig-zag or decorative (stretchy) stitch, or just standard bands and put a band on the bottom as well.


The fabric I used is from Crafty Mama's Fabrics. The Hot Air Balloons, the Pirates and the stripes are all Lillestoff. I added Hilco ribbing to the cuffs and neckband for Noah's tee-shirt. I followed the instructions for the neckbands according to the instructions on page 45 for "binding cut from knit used for the garment" for Amélie's tee-shirt, since the stripes have the same stretch/recovery as the rest of the tee, and for "binding cut from ribbing" for Noah's. When I was cutting the cuffs, I accidentally mixed up the pattern pieces and cut an Amélie sized pair of cuffs for Noah's t-shirt. I figured that we could apply the same theory as for the neckbands, since the ribbing is stretchier than the other knit and didn't bother cutting larger cuffs. There wasn't a heap of difference in the two sizes anyway, maybe as much as the seam allowance?


I also made Amélie some leggings. The pattern I used is from the same issue of Ottobre, and they are the Uncomplicated leggings. To be completely honest here, I wasn't really thrilled with these. The legs have a really close fit, but they are really loose around the bottom and tummy. I guess they are designed to wear over really bulky cloth nappies? I also had to match all those stripes down the outsides of the legs, which makes them not really that "uncomplicated" when you have to do that, although I managed it fairly well. I would rather have mis-matched stripes on a crotch seam that is hidden under a garment than down the sides of the legs where it can be seen by everyone. I liked the way that the waistband was done, though. You put a button-hole in the inside of the waistband before you stitch it down and then thread the elastic through. This means that the elastic can be easily removed and replaced if it is too loose or tight without having to unpick anything. I will use a different pattern next time I make leggings, but I will be stealing that waist elastic idea though.


The kids are loving their new tee-shirts. Noah wanted to wear his to kinder today, but it was all dirty from having been worn yesterday, so I had to wash it for him. As for Amélie, she got way more excited about her tee-shirt when she saw that Noah had one nearly the same.

As for the Sew Your Stash Thin challenge, I used approximately 8 fat quarters making these clothes.
SYST13 Running totals: in = 107, out = 111, total = -4

Ottobre Creative Workshop 303

The most interesting thing I found out about this pattern is that the fit is pretty much identical to the Ottobre t-shirt I made for myself here. The great thing is that this pattern has three different sleeve options - short, long and singlet, and also, three different necklines, round, scoop and V. I can tell you now that the round neckline, as per my photo above, really doesn't suit me. I would do well by making this in a V-neck next time. Perhaps in a gentler colour than hot pink!

I do think it needs a FBA, but as it is just a t-shirt, I can live with it as it is. I added my usual 7cm to the bottom of this top, but it really didn't need it. Ottobre make their t-shirts a generous length, unlike most other patterns, and certainly ready to wear! I did no adjustment on the sleeve length, as I held it up to my arm and could tell that it would be long enough. It is actually a luxurious length for me. I tend to find that long sleeves are more like 3/4 length on me, whilst these actually reach well past my wrists and onto my hands, with just the right fit, so that they don't get in the way.



SYST13: I used aproximately 9 fat quarters from my stash
Running totals: in = 180, out = 95, total = +85

Fancy Flappy Welt Pockets

You might remember this pattern from before. It's the Ottobre Relaxed Cotton Pants from the Spring 2013 issue. I made Liam some school pants, using some gabardine back in March.

This time, I decided to include the fancy welt pockets on the back with the flaps. Instead of making button holes and sewing on buttons, I've used my snap press to apply some jeans snaps. I love the way they turned out, don't you?

I also think I may have mastered the fly, although there is a mistake here, can you tell what it is? Clue: these pants are for a boy! Yes, I have the fly back to front, just like Lauren did in The Great British Sewing Bee. I am sure that I followed the directions properly for the fly shield and that dictates which way the fly goes, so I am not sure what went wrong there? Anyway, the fly still works, I doubt anyone witll notice, but next time I will be looking carefully at which way everything goes before I start to put it together.

Oh, and I used a completely different technique for putting the fly together this time too, and I think it really made the whole job way easier and quicker. I watched this video, by Sandra Bezzina on how to insert a fly, but I put the fly shield on first, and just flipped it out of the way as I sewed the rest of the zip (there is no zipper shield in this video) and then flipped it back when I did the bar tacks.

The fabric I used was the stretch drill that mum got for me recently. It is quite sturdy, and has a really good stretch to it. Perfect for climbing all over the play equipment at school as Noah demonstrates here. These are actually Liam's pants, but it was tricky finding time to photograph him in them when the light was right, so Noah is my model.

I also made Liam this windcheater. It's not exciting enough for a whole blog post, so I will pop it in here. I just used a pattern from the Kwik Sew, Sewing for Children book. Between the pants and the windcheater, I estimate I used about seven fat quarters.

YST13 Running totals: in = 172, out = 51, total = +121 

PS. If you would like to add more fabric to your stash, then I suggest you enter my giveaway. There's a rainbow felt pack and an Anne Kelle FQ pack up for grabs!

School Pants

I had a bit of left over fabric in my stash from some time ago, I think it is gabardine? Liam was also in need of school pants. Since there were none left in the shops in his size, the solution was obvious.



I used the "Relaxed Cotton Pants" pattern (19) from the latest Ottobre magazine (Spring 1/2013). The pattern has elastic in the back, but is flat at the front, which gives them a nice, tidy, but comfortable fit. I didn't bother with the back pockets, I cut the pants shorter so as not to bother with the turn up hem, and I used a jeans snap instead of the button and buttonhole. I still need a bit of practise perfecting the fly - I don't know if I am doing it wrong, but the fly shield in these patterns always seems a bit short to me, even though I add seam allowances? Is it just me, or does the fly seem a bit short as well? I would love if anyone else with more experience has some advice or suggestions? This magazine has some really nice jacket patterns both for boys and girls that I would also like to make.



Noah wanted to have his photo taken too. When my boys are sitting down, Noah is taller, but Liam definitely has the longer legs. Maybe I might regret not having the extra length later on in the year?

SYST13: I used about 4 fat quarters of fabric from my stash for this project.
Running totals, in = 103, out = 38, total = +65

Paperback Writer

As part of KCWC , I finally moved these jeans from my UFO basket and completed them. They have been sitting in the basket for months waiting for me to sew them together.



The pattern is Paperback writer, or design 31 from the Winter 2010 issue of Ottobre magazine. I really like the name, the song was playing in my head whilst I was making these jeans.



These jeans are made for boys with long, very skinny legs. It is recommended for those that have a waist size 4cm smaller than the charts in the magazine, so if you've got a skinny-mini, then this pattern is for you.

One thing I would do differently, is I wouldn't add a seam allowance to the curved edges of the front pockets pieces and facings. I did for this pair, but I've gone and chopped it off my pattern pieces because the pockets get in the way of the fly area.



I've added rivets to the top corners of the back pockets and to the side-seam corner of the front pockets as well as to the top corners of the coin pocket. One of the rivets on the coin pocket is completely hidden, so was un-necessary. I would recommend that if you plan to add rivets to the jeans, they can all be added at the end, anyway, so that would be the way to go.



Another point with the rivets is that I have used two kinds, only because I started with one type, and then realised I didn't have enough. So the two rivets on the sides of the pockets are different to the other rivets. I prefer the look of the other rivets, and they also have skinnier post, which means I can push them through a smaller hole more easily.



I used three sewing machines to put these jeans together; my regular machine for the seams, my over-locker for neatening the edges and also the industrial machine for the top-stitching. You could make these jeans on one machine, but by using my industrial machine for the top-stitching, it saved me threading and rethreading my machine over and over. I used Gutermann upholstery thread, in colour 968. This is a 100% polyester thread and is quite a bit heavier than the regular, sew-all thread. A 100m reel is about the same size as a 250m spool of sew-all. Sadly, I have heard rumours that Gutermann are discontinuing the upholstery thread, so I will be on the look-out for a suitable replacement.



I think the most exciting part of making these jeans is that I got to try out my new jeans snaps and dyes for the snap press. I really need to be making lots more jeans to make the investment worthwhile, but don't they look fantastic?!

Christmas 2011

Christmas Eve and the night before that were quite busy. I managed to whip up another Apple shirt for Liam, make another sunglasses case, and put together a dolly for Amélie. You can see the shirt in the pictures in this post, the dolly I will come back to in a later blog post.



Mean-while, Santa was very busy putting together this awesome present. Santa and his helper were very busy Christmas Eve putting the final bits together and managed to beat the storm (although there was a lot of lightning - perhaps a little risky?). There were a few trimmy bits and a chalk-board that he left for us to add, Santa is very busy, you know.



There was a little more to do before going to bed, the dolly still needed her dress finished, and there were snaps to apply to the shirt. So it was a bit of a late night for me, but it was worth all the effort. The kids are out on there at every opportunity and I think most of the outdoor toys (not the bikes, thank goodness) have been down the slide by now.



Santa even made sure Amélie was accounted for. She loves the swing, she doesn't like getting off it much, though.

Ottobre Woman

The last long-sleeved black t-shirt I owned, met with an unfortunate laundry accident shortly before we replaced our washing machine. While I was using mum's cover-stitch machine, I decided to make myself a replacement.



Armed with Ottobre 2/2006 and some "Seaspray" from Spotlight I set to it.

A normal adjustment for me would be body length adjustment. I am not a tall person, but when sitting down, I am taller than most people I know. I really, really hate too short tops, so I usually add about 7cm to the length of almost every top or dress I make, so I made this adjustment to the pattern. It should be noted, that the length on most tops doesn't change by more than a couple of centimetres from the smallest size to the largest size.



I often lengthen sleeves too, but I held the pattern piece up to my arm before I made it, and felt that the sleeve was adequate, which it was. Love having sleeves that go all the way to my wrists - luxury!



If you look at the pictures, you can see that the top is of a very generous length. I probably could have gotten away without the adjustment, but it is nice to have a top that covers my midriff, and it also doesn't ride up, due to the shaping in the pattern. Whilst I can see that the fit isn't perfect, it is about 1000 times better than anything I can buy in the shops, so worth the trouble of making it. I might have to start making myself some summery tops though, as it is a little warm for this sort of attire at the moment. Lucky for me, there is a short sleeved version and a v-neck as well if I want to go that way.

Amélie's Hilco Stripey Shirt

You may have seen this Ottobre top before. It's Ottobre's Striped T-Shirt from Issue 4, 2007. Here's one I made earlier  I'm a bit happier with this one. I cut into some of my more precious fabric this time, with a bit more cover-stitch experience under my belt.



The fabric is Hilco Campante knit from Crafty Mamas. I happened to have some ribbing in my stash that was a nice match.



It's a bit easier to see the neck-band detail in this lighter fabric too.



I am participating in Blogtoberfest. I also have a giveaway running at the moment - you have until the 11th to enter.

Reverse Star Applique

I'm getting the hang of the cover-stitch machine now, I think. This shirt is made from the Ottobre Workshop 301 pattern that I bought from Crafty Mamas. The orange and navy stripe is Hilco Campan knit, also from Crafty Mamas. I am not 100% sure, but I think the navy was Seaspray from Spotlight.



The embellishment is called a reverse applique because instead of cutting out a star and sewing it on top of the fabric, I cut a star shaped hole in the fabric and placed the fabric behind.



I used my sewing machine's stretch-stitch to top-stitch around the star. I think it looks quite effective.



I am participating in Blogtoberfest, hello to all blogtoberfestians! I am also holding a give-away over here.

Ottobre Striped T-Shirt

This is the striped t-shirt from Ottobre 4/2007. My mum loaned me her cover-stitch machine, so I have been doing a little stretch sewing. This one has a nice placket-type detail in the back so it is easy to get on and off with just one snap. It also matches her stripy leggings. Nice for going under some of her summery dresses so she can wear them before she out-grows them.

Don't forget to enter my giveaway